Segment IX of Centennial History Manual
(From the 75th Anniversary Volume)
MRS. EMMA CLAPP WATNER *
* Mrs. Henry Watner (nee Emma Louise Clapp) was born in Wauwatosa July 3, 1848, the second child in a family of five daughters and one son of Rev. and Mrs. Luther Clapp. With the exception of two years spent at a girl's school in Bradford, Mass., and one year in Racine, she spent her entire life in Wauwatosa. She joined the church May 5, 1861 and was an active member until her death on Dec. 15, 1932. She taught in the grade and high schools here before her marriage, and was active in club and civic affairs until her last illness. In the later years of her life she wrote, "Reminiscences of Early Wauwatosa," which has been accepted as a standard and authentic history of the early days of our city. But dearest to her heart were the Congregational Church and the world-wide program of the church. She served through the years as deaconess, Sunday School teacher and president of the Missionary Society, and truly exemplified the traditions of piety, loyalty and devotion to the church of the home in which she was reared.
Clusters of wooded hills rising from the banks of a beautiful river coursing its meandering way amid overhanging forests and tangle of wild plum, alders, hop and grape-vine, was what the pioneer beheld when he first arrived in Wauwatosa, or this portion of Milwaukee Woods as it was then called.
The land was covered by a dense forest of heavy, mostly hardwood, timber. Gigantic white, brown, red, black jack and swamp oaks, together with maple, basswood, ironwood, ash, cherry and elms of various kinds stood in thrifty grandeur. The brush, except on the land along the river banks, and in the ravines, which were dump, had been destroyed by fire lighted by the Indians for the purpose.
This Menomonee (meaning wild rice) was a stream of clear water of proportions in those days and was quite continuous in its magnitude during the year, becoming in the spring "the raging Menomonee," the dense unbroken forest contributing to such result, where now the rainfall is absorbed by cultivated fields.
This river gave opportunity for the water power, the natural centralizing influence of settlement. At various seasons of the year beautiful wild flowers, profuse from natural conditions, lent beauty to the scene. Do we wonder that the pioneer tarried here to take up his claim?
The first permanent settlement was made in 1835. The first house erected in what is now the center of the city was the log cabin of Mr. Charles Hart, standing opposite the park on North Main street. Mr. Benjamin Hart, his brother, built a little back of this, about in the middle of State street, in front of the post-office. Mr. Benson Brazee had a claim cabin where Mrs. Myron Gilbert lives. There was a class who came here before the pioneers called "squatters," who squatted on the land, built small cabins, girdled a few trees and sold their claims to the pioneers, making from $25 to $30 on each sale. A watch, an axe, a pair of boots or a knife were prominent factors in such trades. For example: Mr. Hendrick Gregg, in 1836, bought his claim of 160 acres where is now the County Farm, for a rifle. Some squatters would remain longer, get a few hundred dollars and then leave.
The Pottawatomies claimed the land covered by Wauwatosa, by right of possession. By a treaty with the government they were allowed to remain here until 1836.
The settlers paid the government $1.25 per acre for their claims.
Did time permit, an account of the first journeys to Wauwatosa would illustrate the hardships endured by the early pioneers in order to reach this goal. It was no pleasure trip in those early days. Many of those who came were young married men and women, between the ages of twenty and forty.
Some pioneers who had property, coming with their families, oxen, canvass-covered wagon, cow and dog, would go into the woods, take the stove from the wagon, sleep in or under the wagon, while they built a small cabin) covering it with bark.
Mr. Joseph Warren said: "In building the first log house, one was extravagant to pay more than seventy-five cents in money, which went for sash, glass, the board for a door, and nails for the same. Some used more economy and put in splints to represent a sash, and pasted on newspaper for glass."
In a few days there is rainy or windy weather; then the settler splits basswood and fills up the cracks. "Now," says wife, "that is good." Then he splits the logs and makes the floor, putting the bed, table and chairs from the ground onto the floor. "Oh! is not this nice!" No palace ever gave greater pleasure. When cold weather comes he mends the cracks. "Why, I did not suppose one could make a log house so comfortable! It is warmer than any framed house I ever saw."
The pioneers of Wauwatosa were driven to all kinds of expedients to supply their wants. Most of their time had to be devoted to clearing the land in order to be self-sustaining the next season. The trees were cut down, rolled together and burned. Very few had oxen or horses the first few years. In order to plant corn and potatoes to live on the coming winter, they must dig up the soil with hoes by hand. Provisions were very high, coming mostly from Indiana and Ohio.
In October, 1838, Mr. J. M. Warren came with his family and built the third house in the little clearing near where the bridge now stands. Mr. Chas. Hart had erected a sawmill (back of the livery stable). Miss Mary Wales told an interesting item about her father, Gideon Wales, coming to Wauwatosa.
Mr. Hart foresaw the need and good opportunity to get in a saw mill in case money could be secured, and urged his brother Benj. to come west and forward him money to begin the mill. The scheme looked favorable to Mr. Benj. Hart, but how could he get the money to him? He told his brother-in-law, Mr. Gideon Wales, if he would carry the money to Mr. Chas. Hart, later he would bring Mr. Wales' family and household goods with his own family. So Jan. 1, 1638, Mr. Wales started on foot with the money safely sewed in his clothes, walking from Madison Co., New York, to Milwaukee, except sailing across Lake Michigan.
Mr. Warren secured the right of putting in the saw-mill a small run of stone for grinding grists. The stones were eighteen inches in diameter, and the grain had to be ground over twice. This was perhaps the first grist-mill in the county. Insignificant as it was, it served these pioneers a better purpose than grinding buckwheat every evening in a coffee mill as some did. The flour being rather coarse, one good lady, having some crape, took a barrel hoop and made a sieve. She not only kept it for her own use, but loaned it to everyone in the village. All were very choice of it. Many customers at the mill had to wait not a little for their grists, and Mrs. Warren cared for them in her hotel home. An extract from a letter written by Mrs. Warren to her Eastern friends, dated March 29, 1839, gives quite a vivid picture of this home. "Our house is small but a comfortable frame house. There are two others on the other side of the river (Messrs. Hart's). A few rods to the west is a saw and grist-mill, in one building, and then, there are log houses on almost every quarter section around us. Log houses are comfortable and are generally as neat and clean as are your Massachusetts mansions. We are not troubled with cleaning brass knockers and bell knobs, but our wooden door latches speak of as much cleanliness as any of those fixings. Our shanty is located by the side of the Menomonee River, arid very near its banks, too. It is very pleasant to view from our window the beautiful gurgling stream, as it passes rapidly downward, and it is no less pleasant to listen to its rolling water at midnight. Settlers here build their chimneys of sticks and mud, laid up like a cob house and plastered with mud; which materials make a good chimney in Wisconsin, but would take fire and burn down quickly in Massachusetts." Signed Lavinia Warren.
During the long winter evenings, these dwellings were illuminated by a piece of cloth in a saucer for a wick, the dish being filled with lard or any kind of grease for fuel. The more pretentious used tallow candles. Often the receptable for the candle was a square cut from a board with three or four nails driven into it to hold the candle. In many cases the molten tallow was made to take the place of a holder, being dropped upon a board and the candle imbedded in it before it hardened.
Most of the furniture was home-made. Luther Warren's cradle consisted of a basswood log, split in two, and the center hollowed out. Rockers were placed on the bottom. In time the bark began to curl, until it closed together; then older grown he would crawl in and out at the ends. One commodity the pioneers did not lack; that was wood to burn to keep them warm. Cooking was in many cases done in front of fire places, in skillets and on griddles that stood upon legs, so that coals could be put under them, and in pots and kettled that hung over the fire on a swinging crane. Sometimes there was an oven for baking, built in the side of the chimney. Meat was roasted on a spit in front of the fire, or broiled on the live coals. The cold air which came down the chimney and the hot air which went up did not make the houses always comfortable in the severest weather.
Often the early settlers suffered hunger. There were no roads, no teams, and many of you have heard Mr. N. J. Swan relate how his father had to carry all the provisions they had on his back from Milwaukee, except the game he took in hunting. One winter some of the supplies gave out in Milwaukee. One was salt. Mr. Swan procured three pounds of which they were very saving. Many poor families had to live on bread and potatoes without salt that winter. Mr. J. A. Warren tells of a neighbor, who the first winter lived on turnips and a few squirrels; for a change the turnips were eaten raw or cooked, scraped or crushed. Another neighbor ground the first year, forty bushels of buckwheat in a coffee-mill to bread his family. Many had pork cooked to a crisp, using fat on the bread and potatoes three times a day. Nearly all had a cow, after the first year, which grazed in the woods; the butter had a peculiar taste, but they made it do with an onion.
Many of the pioneers were Nimrods and supplied their families with venison, wild hog, quails, partridge, pigeons, etc., for it was quite difficult to get meat. In the spring fish were abundant, coming from the lake up the river. In all parts of the forest, wolves were common, which were drawn hither by the presence of cows or pigs. They would often make night hideous with their howls.
With all their severe experiences of home sickness and privations, the pioneers had much enjoyment. A common purpose made a strong bond between them. All testify to the cordiality of each to the other during their rural life in the primeval forest. This seems remarkable, when we take into account, that they had school districts to lay out, roads to locate and district, and all had a point to make or lose, which meant increase or decrease in the value of their property.
The United States road was chopped out in the winter of 1838-39. This followed the old Indian trail from Lake Michigan westward to the Mississippi River. This was the only road, and came down over the hill on North Main street, as does the electric line. The previous settlers picked their way through the forests, following the blazed trees.
The universal stumps were everywhere. Every vehicle meandering between them and over their roots. The first bridge across the Menomonee river was built in 1837. Since that time several others have been Constructed, but these were subjected to heavy strains.
One young man, Wakely Chappel, earned many an honest penny with his oxen, "Buck and Bright," in carrying persons over the stream. Seated on one ox, a passenger on the other, he would guide the oxen as they swam to the opposite shore. They always landed several rods below the opposite point from which they started, because of the strong current.
Four horse stages --- Regular Concord stages --- carrying the mails and passengers ran through regularly, at an early date after the road was opened; in fact the United States opened it for this purpose. The product of the lead mines from Platteville and Mineral Point was hauled through here, up and down the clayey muddy hills, each large covered wagon having from four to six yoke of oxen and one driver. Mr. Luther Warren has informed us how the drivers used to crack their long whips (in passing through) to the great admiration of the juvenile population.
The first five miles a locomotive ever ran in Wisconsin, was from Milwaukee to the unfinished bridge which spanned the river near the mill.
In the earliest years of settlement, the Indians were quite numerous in these wildwoods, Wauwatosa being on their trail to and from Milwaukee to the more distant wilderness. They visited Milwaukee annually for years with marketing, such as game, all kinds of berries, baskets, etc. They also continued to hunt in the forests. All these wore native costumes, some highly ornamented and nearly all the adults painted their faces. They were a savage looking people, everyone armed with tomahawk and knife, and either bow and arrows or a rifle. The settlers got along with them quite well, when they did not exhibit fear, trying at the same time to keep on good terms with them. An Indian never forgets an injury or a kindness.
Every log cabin had hung on the wall or on the beam over head a rifle, which was instantly available for man or woman. Wearing moccasins and moving stealthily along, with cat-like tread, an Indian form often appeared in the doorway, or a painted face, with black beady eyes, peered in the window when the settler's wife was alone. On one such occasion, three or four Indians entering, asked the palefaced squaw for some sour milk, a favorite beverage with the Indian. Refusing them, as she had none to spare, they began, "Ugh! Ugh!" and pointing to the shelf where it stood, proceeded to help themselves; whereupon the woman reached for the rifle. They suddenly decided to depart, grunting as they went; "Brave squaw! Brave squaw!"
The naming of the town' in 1841 was quite an occasion, previously dubbed Hart's Mills on account of the saw and gristmills owned by Chas. Hart.
All this time society, social and religious, had attention. The society was
distinctly American. Like their New England forefathers, the first settlers
endeavored to consecrate their town to Christ. During the years 1835-6-7, there were few
religious meetings. The first sermon preached in the village was in 1838 by Rev.
Mr. Crawford, the first Presbyterian minister of the village of Milwaukee.
His text
was from Matt. 3:10: "And now also the axe is land until the root of the tree,"
etc. The services were held in the shanty of Mr. Janathan Warren.
In Hart's Mills meetings were held regularly in log houses or in rude unfinished frame buildings, but in the Gilbert neighborhood they had a log school house 16 ft. k 20 ft. The seats were made of basswood trees, split open in the center, with the bark side down, the legs a-la-milking-stool. In 1846 a frame school house, larger and more comfortable than the log one, was built.
Meetings were sometimes held in, the bar-room of the tavern, the bottles and decanters forming a rather unusual background for the minister conducting the services.
Among the earliest preachers were Rev. Mr. Ordway, Rev. Mr. Perkins, Rev. Mr. Quagh of the Dutch Reformed Church, Rev. Peter Turk (grandfather of Mrs. Dr. Cutler) and Rev. Mr. Conrad, Baptist Ministers; Mr. Turk came the whole distance from New York State on horse-back. Rev. Mr. Wheelock of the M. E. Church settled on the present Dousman place in 1839. He preached several times at the home of Mark Johnson.
After the school house at Hart's Mills was built, it was the meeting place for all denominations, i.e.: Methodists, Baptists and Congregationalists; all uniting in a Sabbath School. They met on alternate Sundays at the Gilbert school house.
The school house at Hart's Mills was at first only one story high. The seats were long, rather straight-backed, yet not very uncomfortable. They were purchased, together with the desk, of Milwaukee Plymouth Church.
When the building was in process of erection, one Saturday, a minister happened to come along. He was asked to preach the following day and the notice widely circulated, not by telephone. Mr. Joseph Warren, the carpenter, laid some loose boards on the women's side for a floor and fixed a comfortable plank for a seat. The legs of the work-bench were put down through the joists for a pulpit. The men sat on the other side without much ceremony. All went on very well until a Wagon passed in the road, when a dog in the audience sprang to the sill (where there would afterward be a door) and barked, just as he would at home. Silas Brown fired a broom at the dog with such accurate aim that it hit him, and he ran around back of the house making more noise than before, but in a different tune. The action, of firing the broom shook the tottering pieces of lumber on which a ladder was lying and also the men sitting on the ladder. Down it all came! Mr. Chas. Hart was asleep, with a large red silk handkerchief spread all over his head and, face to escape the swarming flies, and it was amusing to see him try to get that handkerchief off to see where he was going. There was no floor at this place and they all went down into the green oats, for the school house was built upon a field of oats. This was the first meeting in the new school house, and we may imagine the "preaching was under difficulties."
The method of reaching meeting was not then by automobile or electric car over asphalt pavement. There were long walks, circuitous paths around the stumps and the fording of streams.
Mr. J. A. Warren's account of those early times and doings has always been exceedingly piquant and graphic, so we will let him tell his own story.
"We went to meeting mostly on foot, but some with oxen, wagons or sleds, fastening chairs to the wagons for the elderly ladies. The driver sat on boards laid across the wagon and the children on the straw in the bottom. The first carryall I had in this country was a stone-boat. Arriving at the appointed place, when the meeting was in the woods, the chairs were taken from the wagon for the same old ladies. The rest sat where it was the most convenient, on logs, on the ground, or perhaps standing by the trees. On one occasion they celebrated The Lord's Supper in the woods. The furniture consisted of a small stand, a white pitcher, a plate and glass tumbler for the elements. No doubt you have all heard of the man who took his wife home on a wheelbarrow, but what do you think of a man going to church with his cow-hides drawn over his pants, having never seen the luxury of grease, bending forward with his hands on his knees, fording the river with his wife on his back? --- quite a usual custom."
"It was not uncommon when we reached there before the minister came, to find one of the laymen holding forth in the school house, much to his own satisfaction; while some of them were standing around a stump discussing the beauties of Mormonism; others were seated on a log talking of their claims or clearings; besides there was plenty of gossip 'in those days."
It is somewhat difficult to photograph the appearance of the early settlers as they came together. So varied were the styles of the ladies --- one remarked: "They had the most fashion of any audience I ever saw." Their wardrobes consisted of articles brought from the east, while others were manufactured from remnants of worn out gowns. The girls wore embroidered pantalettes extending to the ankle. For everyday wear, nankeen, or calico like the dress were substituted. Conspicuous on many occasions was a large poke bonnet which came originally from Ireland. But in after years, no bonnet was more striking than dear Grandma Hill's green calash.
There was very little money in the community. They lived the simple life. A little went much farther then than now. Letter postage was twenty-five cents for unpaid letters --- a single sheet. No envelopes were used, only a red wafer for sealing. It was often difficult to get the money to pay for a letter from eastern friends, lying in the post-office for delivery. There was no drug store in those early days, so a supply of medicine was kept in each home. Castor oil and picry answering every difficulty, unless the patient required bleeding, when Dr. Castleman of Milwaukee was sent for.
Mr. N. J. Swan has related how they would sometimes see a man coming into church with a red cotton handkerchief tied around his knee; some would suppose that he had met with some severe accident to his person, but it was only a rip in his pants, that the pride of the natural heart was trying to shield. Many wore coats made of Indian blankets of all colors. It is thought they were procured by selling liquor to the Indians. Mr. Warren thus describes one tall man, Mr. Spears, "who had a coat that was green, with a black border; that is the blanket had a black border and the border had to take its chances when it was made into a coat. The sun had long since discarded it, and it absolutely refused to reflect its glory or beauty. It was made single breasted, buttoned from top to bottom, until it was minus button-holes, or any place to put a button. He wore it in the warmest weather; and what was the matter? I will state it in mathematical terms: He was plus coat minus shirt."
"Clothing would wear out, patch as much as one would; turn the pants foreside behind, ball-stitch the old hats with store strings, yet after awhile they would absolutely refuse to receive another stitch. We could get only money enough to buy one thing at a time. How it would look to see a nice new clean coat with those old patched pants and hat; or a new vest with the old coat. Do you not think he felt better in the old clothes? Remember, we had but one suit for all occasions."
In summer nearly all the children went bare-footed, and it was not an unusual thing for the men to do likewise.
People were ever ready to help each other, watching with the sick and giving such aid as lay in their power.
The women, with rare mental endowments and culture for the time, were an important factor in moulding the Christian influence of the town. By teaching and example they wove into the later generation the thread and fiber of their own life. As a result, all over our broad land today, there are men and women bearing aloft the torch of truth and justice, which was lighted at these humble firesides. We covet for ourselves their spirit, their courage, tolerance, love of liberty, truth, benevolence, patriotism and hospitality, yea, their sense of duty. Like them, let us take time to cultivate and practice these, that they may be to us more than a name --- growing, vitalized reality.